Luxury is freedom

Chanel Forever

by Micha Christos

V&A

London

September 16, 2023 to February 25, 2024

GABRIELLE CHANEL

FASHION MANIFESTO

Gabrielle Chanel, 31 rue Cambon, Paris, 1937

Photo: Roger Schall/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

Marilyn Monroe applying Chanel N°5 at the Ambassador Hotel,

New York, 24 March 1955. Photograph by Ed Feingersh.

©Ed Feingersh/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

Roussy Sert wearing a long white sequin dress by Chanel, and a 15-strand coral necklace,

Photograph by André Durst, published in Vogue December 15, 1936 Photograph: Andre Durst/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

The first British exhibition dedicated to the work of French couturier Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, “Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto” traces the evolution of her iconic design style and the creation of the House of CHANEL, from the opening of its first boutique millinery in Paris in 1910 to the presentation of its last collection in 1971.

Nearly 200 looks seen together for the first time, as well as accessories, perfumes and jewelry, explore Chanel's pioneering approach. She paved the way for a new elegance and continues to influence the way women dress today.

The exhibition presents strong pieces such as one of the first surviving Chanel garments from 1916; original costumes designed by Chanel for the Ballets Russes du Train Bleu production in 1924; outfits created for Hollywood stars Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich; an early example of Chanel's revolutionary evening pants and ensembles from Chanel's final collection of 1971.

Lydia Sokolova, English dancer and choreographer Anton Dolin, Bronislava Nijinska and Leon Woizikowsky after the first performance of ‘Le Train Bleu’ in Britain, at the Coliseum Theatre, London, 1924. Photo: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London. © Sasha/courtesy Getty Images

Model, Marion Morehouse, wearing a black crepe romain bolero dress with fringed and paillette embroidered skirt by Chanel. Photo by Edward Steichen, published in Vogue US, 1926

Edward Steichen/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

Above all, creating her own wardrobe for an independent and active woman, Chanel was able to anticipate the needs and desires of the modern woman.

Mixing classicism and innovation, she was able to imagine a style and a silhouette that is remarkable among all.

Following only her passions, the Lioness of number 5 loved to be admired and women understood this need to attract attention through their own desires for seduction.

This “Fashion Manifesto” presents a stunning range of Chanel’s most iconic creations.

A double C which, for years, has been a true signature of timeless luxury and universal elegance.

Gabrielle Chanel, Hat 1917

Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris

Marie-Hélène Arnaud in a tweed suit from Chanel’s Fall-Winter 1959 collection and Chanel shoes, carrying the 2.55 Chanel handbag.

Sem (Georges Goursat, dit)

Album White Bottoms : N°5 Chanel Paris 1927

Musée Carnavalet, Histoire de Paris