Art is divine

A destiny in images

by Micha Christos

MEP PARIS

Paris

From February 28 to May 26, 2024

 

 LISA FONSSAGRIVES - PEN

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Lillian Bassman, Touch of Dew, Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, New York, Harper’s Bazaar, May 1961 Gelatin silver print MEP Collection, Paris. Donation from Lizzie Himmel © Estate of Lillian Bassman

Irving Penn, Lisa Fonssagrives wearing a dress by Antonio del Castillo for Lanvin for the cover of US Vogue,

November 1, 1949 Gelatin silver print Loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © Condé Nast

Born in 1911 in Sweden, Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn studied art and choreography in Berlin with Mary Wigman, a pioneer of expressionist dance. Back in Stockholm, she opened her own dance school. In 1933, she moved to Paris and married the dancer Fernand Fonssagrives in 1934.

 

Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn was the muse of the greatest photographers of her time. Her natural grace, elegance and professionalism made her start her career in 1936 with her first husband, Fernand Fonssagrives, a protean artist whose talent gave a real role to the models he photographed.He created his most memorable images with Lisa, who was very involved in the creative process, for around fifteen years. Leaving Europe for the United States due to the war, Fernand Fonssagrives quickly became one of the most sought-after photographers in New York. In 1940, he shared a studio with the young Richard Avedon.

 

Published in Vogue, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Town & Country, he grew tired of the demands of the artistic directors with whom he collaborated, and, to escape the routine of commercial work, he abandoned photography in 1963 and moved to Spain to make sculpture. At the start of her career, Lisa Fonssagrives met the photographer Willy Maywald in Paris who made a series of photographs with her for hats. Following this shoot, Vogue offered Lisa the opportunity to work with the young Horst P. Horst who was just starting out in the profession.

Fernand Fonssagrives, Lisa Fonssagrives, ‘Elan’ Noirmoutier beach, France, 1935 Gelatin silver print MEP Collection, Paris. Donation from the Archive of Tom Penn

© Estate of Fernand Fonssagrives


Fernand Fonssagrives, Lisa Fonssagrives, for Town and Country, New York, ca. 1947

Gelatin silver print Loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © Estate of Fernand Fonssagrives

Fernand Fonssagrives, Lisa Fonssagrives, 1935-1939 Gelatin silver print MEP Collection, Paris. Donation from the Archive of Tom Penn © Estate of Fernand Fonssagrives

From 1936 to 1939, she was photographed by the greatest fashion photographers, Erwin Blumenfeld for Vogue magazine as well as George Hoyningen Huene and George Platt Lynes for Harper’s Bazaar. At the time, photographs were most often taken in the studio with very long exposure times; a single shot could last up to a day. Very quickly, Lisa became the favorite model, the essential muse of the greatest talents of the time, photographers and couturiers whose most beautiful creations she brought to delight while Paris was the great capital of fashion with Patou, Madame Grès, Elsa Schiaparelli , Balenciaga or Rochas.

 

She emigrated to New York in 1939, while pursuing her career as a model with her husband Fernand Fonssagrives, Horst P. Horst and Erwin Blumenfeld who immortalized her on the Eiffel Tower. In the United States, she worked with the greatest, like Richard Avedon, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Gene Fenn, Otto Fenn, Toni Frissel and John Rawlings, Frances McLaughlin-Gill and Lillian Bassman, who would become great friends.

 

Louise Dahl-Wolfe was the first to photograph her models outside the studio. Toni Frissell is the first to overcome Condé Nast’s refusal for lightweight film cameras. These feminine talents shape a new image of women, independent, serene and dynamic. Lisa perfectly embodies this modern freedom.


Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Lisa Fonssagrives wearing a ‘King Tut’ sugarloaf hat by Hattie Carnegie, jewelry by Verdura. Harper’s Bazaar, September 1945 Gelatin silver print Loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © Center for Creative Photography, Arizona Board of Regents /Adagp, Paris 2023

Horst P. Horst, Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn wearing a wool suit, jacket lined with muskrat by Charles James, feathered hat by Mr. John, US Vogue, February 15, 1950 Gelatin silver print Loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © Condé Nast


 In 1947, Irving Penn met Lisa Fonssagrives for the first time when he had to take a group photo of the twelve most photographed models in America for Vogue magazine.

 

They get married and their deep personal and artistic complicity gives birth to photographs that have become legendary. Irving Penn is fascinated by the personality, the charisma of his wife and their exchanges transcend their work.

 

She herself began a career as a photographer in 1941. She gradually withdrew from modeling from 1952 and began designing clothes, then took up sculpture. Her works are on display at the Marlborough Gallery. She died in New York in 1992.

 

 

Doe-eyed, straight nose, defined cheekbones, slim and distinguished silhouette, Lisa Fonssagrives – Penn printed more than film, she inspired and forever marked the art of photography in unforgettable works, thanks to her intelligence and her allure inimitable

Irving Penn, Untitled, colour variant in US Vogue, August 1, 1949 Gelatin silver print Loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © The Irving Penn Foundation


George Hoyningen-Huene, Lisa Fonssagrives wearing a Directoire dress in white chiffon by Vionnet,

Harper’s Bazaar, 15 March 1938 Gelatin silver print Loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © George Hoyningen-Huene, Estate Archives